ON THE DOOR
By Karen Burshtein
“It doesn’t get more Door County than this,” said communications specialist Jon Jarosh. We were standing on the shoreline of Lake Michigan at Peninsula State Park, in Door County, Wisconsin. Just behind us was a lighthouse, one of the county’s 11 famous beacons. Beyond us were the rippling waves of the lake. And just in front, on a ledge overlooking the bay, was a jar of booze-soaked cherries. We were about to get bounced.
The famous Montmorency cherries are grown in Door County. Getting bounced requires doing a shot of cherry liquor—whole cherries, sugar and a spirit of choice that have been stored in a glass jar over the winter. After doing the shot, you spit the cherry pit in a competition about whose goes farthest. Performing the ritual with a lighthouse in the background and the lake in front is, indeed, about as “Door County” as it gets.
On a four-day tour, we gorged on cherries in various guises, from locally made cherry wine to cherry pie (and Wisconsin cheese curds, too, of course) and got to know the rich history of this under-the-radar Wisconsin gem.
The finger-shaped peninsula in northern Wisconsin is dotted with charming small towns along Lake Michigan. The biggest town and entry to Door County is Superior Bay, about an hour and half drive from Green Bay, where our visit began. From there, after making a requisite stop at Lambeau stadium, home of the Packers—and the most loyal fans in the NFL, we set off to discover the County. We were “going on the Door” as the locals say.
In Superior Bay we got an overview of the region on a boat cruise that took us under impressive bridges, including a gorgeous drawbridge. This small community has played a role in worldwide shipbuilding. Many international boats (including the yacht of the King of Spain) were built in Door County, and the Bay Shipbuilding company is still the primary source of employment for much of the town. Many Chicago families have summer homes here and their presence in summer months has earned Door County the nickname The Hamptons of the Midwest.
We also learned how Door County got its name. The French named the treacherous waters off Washington Island at the northeast end of the peninsula “Portes des Morts” or Doors of Death. Many ships went down here. We actually saw some of them through clear lake water, a day later, on a Death’s Door boat tour.
We saw some amazing vistas that can only be viewed from water when we went on a choppy (for me, not for the locals) kayak outing. Hugging the stunning Lake Michigan shoreline, we paddled past worn-away limestone cliffs that had created underwater caves.
Another highlight of our time in the County was the 3,776-acre Peninsula State Park with its rocky bluffs and fantastic hiking trails through woods. Here we climbed the new 60-foot Eagle Tower, Wisconsin’s first accessible observation tower. You can access it via 95 stairs or use the 850-foot ramp. At the top we were treated to some stunning views.
I was impressed by the beauty and the charm of the region, but still had to wonder about the draw for Canadians who share much of the same geography, not to mention Great Lakes. The question was partly answered on visits to two nature sanctuaries: The environmental stewardship is progressive and impressive. At Ridges Sanctuary, the state’s oldest non-profit nature preserve, a naturalist-led walk took us on trails among native wildflowers and over bridges to one of the County’s lighthouses. Ridges is also an Audubon Important Bird Area. Equally impressive was the Crossroads in Sturgeon Bay, a 200-acre nature preserve and learning center, which uses its distinct ecosystems to encourage respect for nature.
The county has been strongly influenced by Scandinavia, with many people from the Nordic country settling here. Icelandic, Finnish, Danish, Swedish and Norwegian flags flap in front of homes. But nothing prepared us for the gorgeous wooden Lutheran chapel we discovered on Washington Island, a spot known as the jewel in the crown of Door County. The chapel was built by locals to resemble a chapel dating back to the 11th century. From Washington Island we took a 15-minute ferry ride to remote Rock Island and landed in front of an enormous boathouse built by 19th-century Chicago inventor and mogul Chester Thordarson. Rock Island is a gorgeous pedestrian-only island with endless hiking trails, white sand beaches and the oldest lighthouse in Wisconsin.
Over four days “On the Door” I got a good taste of the County but like with cherries, I’d love some more.
Where to stay:
Each town in the County offers accommodation options including revamped historic buildings. These include the charming Baileys Harbor Schoolhouse Inn and Blacksmith Inn on the Shore, both in the town of Baileys Harbor
Where to Eat:
Della Porta, Ellison Bay, dishes excellent, authentic Italian cuisine.
Sway Brewery and Bakery, Baileys Harbor, is a hybrid brewery and bakery serving excellent beer, pastries and coffee.
Mezzanine, at Egg Harbor, offers elevated, County-inspired cuisine with beautiful views. Menu favorites include smoked whitefish cakes with Cajun-cherry aioli and Ruebens with house-made pastrami and cherry kraut.
White Gull Inn, in Fish Creek, is where you can experience a Fish Boil, a true Door County culinary experience. Whitefish, potatoes and onions are cooked in a massive pot on a wood fire with flames shooting into the sky. Chives Restaurant, at Bailey’s Harbor, has a food truck lawn offering tasty options for lunch.
